Last week in Southern Africa. We left on a high though!

Hi Laura... um... I'm not actually taking a picture of you... Haven't you seen the elephant?

The Warthog porters will put your luggage into our trunk for you Madam.
Top speed isn't so high in Laura's vehicle but if you hit a tree it moves out of your way!


Warthogs came daily to feed off the elephant food scattered on the ground. They also posed brilliantly for photos.


Two Black Faced Impala spar to see who is the strongest and possibly to show off for the tourists watching.

Baboons were very common, so you would expect a few young ones creating havoc.

Our last night in Africa was beautiful and very memorable. We are going to have to come back.

Here the team posed for photos before going to the airport. From the left Lee, Rachael, Joe, Joseph and Laura. Thanks guys it was SUPER, SPECIAL, GREAT!

Back in the UK we get a hero's welcome!!!!!!!!

Southern Africa: The final week

Well here it is the final instalment of the Big Hug Travel Blog, our last week of travelling and our final week in Southern Africa… its been one heck of a trip and Africa still had a few special surprises up its sleeves….

Monday: Once more we rose to watch the sunrise, the colours changing from pinks to blue. We watched Southern Pied Babblers and Yellow-billed Hornbills jump around our camp as we ate breakfast and packed our camp. Once ready we started our journey to the Chobe National Park heading down bumpy roads, past endless expanses of yellow grass and rusty orange, brown bushes and trees and past herds of giraffe and troops of baboons.

Suddenly Josephat slammed on the brakes, sliding forward we braced ourselves on the seats in front and looked out the front window just in time to see something cat-like with a long tail dash into the bushes. Joel, sitting at the front had a much better view… a young leopard!

Further down the road we saw an African Elephant munching on tree leaves by the roadside and another big troop of baboons passed over the road. Passing large fields of sunflowers their bright yellow heads waving gently in the breeze, finally we drove into Lesane, a reasonably sized town set on the banks of the River Chobe there were numerous tourist lodges as well as local shops and huts. In the middle of this bustling hive of people we saw a warthog snuffling around the grassy verges!

Our campsite was right on the banks of the river and once our tents we set up we decided to cool off in the swimming pool (not in the river with its crocs, hippos!)

Later that afternoon we were taken to one of the other tourist lodges, here we boarded a small tin boat and were taken on an afternoon river cruise.
The Chobe River was stunningly beautiful, in a country that had already proved beautiful. The wide deep blue river winding its way through lush, vibrant green reeds and grass, just like what we had seen from the plane over the Okavango Delta and had been so disappointed not to see on our mokorro safari, it was all here….

The river banks we alive with birds, Pied Kingfishers dashed everywhere, baboons crashed through the trees and big herds of Cape Buffalo came down to the waters edge to drink. The guide steered the boat into the bank for us to take a closer look at a huge crocodile basking on the bank!
Down river we continued, the bank to one side and a huge island of reeds to the other, out on this island half submerged were 4 African Elephants eating the lush vegetation and spraying water over themselves.

The bird life was equally as amazing; storks, ducks, kingfishers, trees filled with vultures….

Around the island and we came across a group of about 9 Hippo’s including a couple of young ones and big male. Drifting in close we watched them wiggle their ears and a few of the adults yawn revealing those wonderful large teeth, a photographers paradise!

Next we headed over to the far bank where a big group of elephants including a few youngsters were coming down to the rivers edge, but before we reached them we came across two elephants swimming mid river! They went so deep we could just see the tops of their heads and backs, trunks lifted high. They would lift themselves up and dive down completely submerging themselves before surfacing in a rush of water and spray! The swimming elephants came right in close to the boat before one headed for the bank, lumbering out of the water to mingle with the others. It was wonderful watching the little ones flicking water with their little trunks while the adults moved away and started nibbling at the trees.

Further up the river and we came across a lone bull, further still and there were yet more elephants along the river bank. We glided in close to a African Jacana and its chicks, padding their way across the lily pads and passed the shy and rare Puku standing amongst the reeds. It was time to head back, the sun, now dazzling red, was starting to drop in the sky, not before we’d had another encounter with a group of hippos, who splashed and yawned in the rippling water.

We paused often on the way back, watching the blood red sun dip behind the horizon, shimmering on the velvety black water of the river. The sky then turned through subtle shades of blue, pink and purple as we returned to the jetty. It had been one of the most amazing wildlife trips we’d ever done, which is saying a lot! It was stunning and to be honest what we had been hoping for in the Okavango.

Tuesday: After such an amazing evening of wildlife watching we could not resist making another venture into the Chobe this time on four wheels. It was an optional activity and only half the group decided to go for it. So at 5.30am, with only a hint of light over the eastern horizon, we emerged sleepily from our tents and joined the others under the canopy of stars waiting for our guide. It was cool, the sky grew lighter slowly, the shadowy trees gradually came into focus, 6am came and went… we wondered, the guides had been dot on time yesterday, now they were late.

6.10am the camp was silent, no one else stirred. 6.15am maybe they weren’t coming. 6.30am they definitely weren’t coming. Joel had woken to see our torches still shining in the dark camp, he came out to see why we had not gone, on hearing our story he headed off to wake some people and get it sorted.

The horizon had turned pale pinky orange, steam rose off the river running past the camp tinged pink, rising in wisps, merging into the beautiful sky. We dearly wished to be out in the Park taking photos but were stuck staring enviously from the camps restaurant. The scene grew golden as the sun rose above the tree line, burning the remaining mist off and revealing the blue running river beneath. Finally a guide arrived at just after 7am and after the coldest 20 minutes of our lives we finally pulled up at the gates of the National Park. The problem was that the 4x4 was open, the cold air rushed at us, there was no avoiding it, usually the tour companies provide blankets but this guide had seemed to have forgotten. Still it was turning into another beautiful day with clear bright blue skies, and despite the late start and cold trip we were looking forward to the safari.

For 2 hours our guide drove us along sandy, bumpy tracks through a dusty landscape of scrawny trees and bushes in open woodland with patches of yellow grass between, along the banks of the winding river. The river shimmered in the morning sunlight, the reeds vibrant against the blue sky and water. Along its edge we passed a troop of baboons including very young babies, searching through piles of elephant dung for food! Further along we saw Hippos in the river, Buffalo in the bushes, numerous Warthog on the roads, a few elephants including a big lone bull, hundreds of Impala and two more Puku. Bird life was prolific, Egyptian Goose paddled along the waters edge, Crested Francolin ran under the bushes and a plethora of small, colourful birds flitted amongst the trees.

The two hours flew by and we were soon back at the gates and then making our way back to camp, here we ate a quick breakfast, packed our things and headed for the border. We were entering our 4th country of the tour Zimbabwe, and our final destination, Victoria Falls.

From the border it was only 70km to Vic Falls, the final stretch of driving on our marathon across Southern Africa. The rolling ridges of land we covered in green and golden trees and bush. After over 5000km we finally arrived in Victoria Falls, the small town, a tourist mecca, was bustling with people and baboons! Small shops dotted the streets, men carrying wooden carvings were everywhere, ahead behind a curtain of the largest and greenest trees we had seen in a while a massive cloud billowed against the clear blue sky, spray from the mighty Victoria Falls. Even from this distance you could hear the roar of water: The Smoke That Thunders.

Once settled into our final camp we ate lunch and then headed straight for the Falls. Through the town and we were constantly hounded by street vendors, it only added to the experience. The town was bustling with cars, vans, coaches and people; we passed broken tree trunks and concrete barriers, evidence that these people shared this town with some very large wildlife.

The change in vegetation as we entered the park was remarkable, after weeks of dry, dusty, sandy landscapes we had entered a lush oasis. Large, tall trees vivid green, water droplets dripped from their leaves, the very atmosphere was damp.

Heading to the left, turned a corner and caught our breath. Through a gap in the trees we caught sight of the Falls, a mass of white water rushed over the side of a sheer cliff and plunged into a deep chasm. Making our way carefully down slippery stone steps and found ourselves starring at the far end of the 150m deep hole that the Zambezi River plunged into, a rainbow glittered across the spray of water.

Climbing back up we now walked around the massive fissure in the ground, adjacent to the falls themselves. Stopping at the various view points we took in the stunning power of nature, across the gaping chasm the river plunged over the edge in a wide curtain of white water, spray and mist towered up and the came down in a cloud of rain, sometimes light and misty and then with the dainty breeze in a heavy deluge – we got soaked! It was exhilarating standing under an intense blue sky getting completely soaked, the roar of the water pounding in our ears. We giggle, laughed and then gasped at the beautiful rainbows created in the spray, truly the work of God.

Danger Point and the river flowed on through a gorge, the far bank was Zambia. Here we turned back, clothes dripping, shoes squelching we still managed to spot a male bushbuck feeding on the luxuriant green grass.

We squelched back through town to our camp just as the sun was setting. Dinner tonight was the last from the truck, and was once more delicious. That evening we sat by a fire plotting how we could get Joel home with us to cook our dinner every night…

Wednesday: The final day of the tour… Once again Laura, Rachael and Lee were up at 6am while the rest of the group slept in, the reason? We were off on an early morning Elephant Backed Safari!

A short while later and we were once again climbing into an open 4x4, this time however our guide Lawrence gave us all thick fleece blankets to keep us warm.

Driving down the main street of Vic Falls we watched the sunrise behind the towering column of mist and spray, the cloud turning pink and then gold, it was a breath-taking sight.

After picking up another couple we headed 10km out of town to a private game reserve, off the main road and we headed down a bumpy track with low bushes open woodland and the occasional towering tree on either side. Through some gates and we were onto the reserve, first stop a small collection of huts, where a roaring fire and a hot cup of tea were waiting.
After a quick briefing we jumped back into the 4x4 and drove a short distance to an open glade surrounded by tall, shady trees. Walking around were three young African Elephants with their drivers sat on top. Excitement rushed through our veins, we could not stop grinning and those smiles did not leave our faces for the next couple of hours.

Lee and Rach were the first to climb up using a tall platform, Rach sat behind Benjamin our driver and Lee behind her. We moved away rolling a little with the rhythm our the elephant’s gait, Benjamin introduced her to us, her name was Lundi and she was 28 years old. All the elephants here we orphaned in a drought in 1991, 11 in total, 6 males and 5 females ranging in age from 11 to 28. Laura climbed aboard her elephant and with the other couple ready we headed off in single file, with Lawrence walking in front. Lundi was beautiful; we were so high up we could see over the low bushes and trees, and it was brilliant, ambling along taking everything and keeping our eyes open for birds and mammals. A short distance in and we spotted a beautiful dark brown antelope with striking white markings and long curved back horns, a Sable Antelope. Passing through low spiky bushes and large tall trees, we slowly made our way up and over a small hill. We spotted quite a few birds including vultures and storks, a couple of Giraffes hiding amongst the trees, zebra and Black-faced Impala.

All too soon we were returning to the glade, we climbed off and then had a chance to meet our elephants. While she was sitting we were able to stroke Lundi, her skin felt hard, rough and prickly from the hairs and yet in other places her skin was really smooth and soft. Her dark grey skin was folded and creased then covered in sparse, coarse, dark hairs that felt prickly to touch. Her long trunk was constantly searching for food and we were able to give some pellets which she sucked off our palms like a Hoover! We had our photos taken sitting with her and then said a fond farewell and thanks to Benjamin and Lundi before they headed off.

Still grinning and laughing from the wonderful experience we were driven back to the huts where we ate delicious cooked breakfast under the warm African sun and clear blue sky.

Breakfast over and we were returned to our campsite, where we thanked Lawrence for a fantastic morning!

We did not remain at the campsite long but headed back down the road heading for the Falls again, but this time we did not go into the park but continued down the road to the border with Zambia. Through the Zimbabwean border and we were into ‘No Mans Land’, over the bridge that crosses the gorge through which the Zambezi River flows through after crashing over the falls. Below the river swirled and raged in a mass of white water, ahead the far end of the falls roared behind a curtain of spray, some crazy soul did a bungy jump off the bridge as we passed…

Over the bridge through border control and we were into Zambia, our fifth country of the tour =)
We went to take a look at the Falls from this side but found we would have to pay another $20 to go in, instead we spent a while looking from the little market outside the gates. Of course we were hounded by sellers trying to engage us in conversation, to draw us in and then try to sell us something. Despite this there were some beautiful carvings and the guys were very interesting to talk to, Laura bought a superb wooden carving of a Hippo and then we headed back across the bridge back to Zimbabwe. It was very hot and we were thirsty and hungry so we made our way back to camp for a late lunch.

After a very refreshing dip in the pool we spent a little while watching and taking pictures of very cheeky Vervet Monkeys who were intent on trashing the camp!

Later that afternoon we braced ourselves and headed for the open market, knowing we were going to get hassled, but that was all part of the experience, so of the guys were really nice others were very pushy. Lee was great at haggling, and with only one scary moment when one guy tried to grab Rachael’s hand in a deal she did not want, we managed to come away with some stunning pieces for a really good price. It was getting late; the sun was descending in another blaze of colour casting long shadows over the town, we headed back to the camp, followed all the way by a guy who wanted to swap Lee’s hat for a wooden carving!

Dinner tonight was at a local restaurant complete with African dancers and Warthog and Kudu steaks. Everyone was a little tired and subdued, it was our last meal together, still we all managed to have a good giggle.

Thursday: This final day, time to say goodbye to our new friends, our tour companions, Joel, Joesphat and Africa. It had been a stunning end to cap off an amazing 8 months of travelling…

It was with mixed feelings that we started our journey home, we were looking forward to getting home, seeing our friends and family, getting on with our careers and yet we were really sad to leave Africa and end our brilliant travels…for the moment…

After saying our goodbyes to those staying in Zimbabwe, we flew to Johannesburg and spent the rest of the day waiting for our flight home with the rest of the group.
Later that evening with everyone boarding various planes to London we said our final goodbyes and headed home…

So ends the Big Huge Travel Blog, it’s been a great adventure and we wanted to thank all of you who have been reading this Blog and keeping up with our tales from around the world. But this is certainly not the end, we both hope to go travelling again and will definitely write a new Blog to keep everyone up to date so tune in next time, who knows where will be heading…

Thanks
Love Lee and Rachael

Mammals, mammals and even bigger mammals!

Rachael tentatively strokes a WILD Cape Fur Seal. He might have bad breath and have a bad temper but Lee had a stroke too.

The largest termite mound we saw and surprisingly was absolutely rock solid. Amazing what tiny insects can do with some soil and some spit.

As the sun set a pride of lionesses come down to the water to drink.


Black Rhino were very frequent in our campsite as they came down every evening to drink. Luckily we were all fenced into our sleeping area (that's what they do here, if you want to be safe you fence yourself in!).


All together now... Aaaaahhhhhhh!


Predators like to hunt during the night so this sleepy Leopard was just waking up to see what was going on and to check if any tourists had got 'lost'.


Laura and Rachael leaving the National park where we took a life times worth of photos and saw some fantastic wildlife.

TAXI!!!!!! Our own personal mokorro captain took us into the Okavango delta.

We did spring a slight leak in the mokorro but with a boat only above the surface by about 1cm, could of been a lot worse.

In other parts of the world there are vampires, werewolves and the Loch Ness monster. Here we have a great photo of the skeleton headed Buffalo man!