The Journey South

Sunday: We spent most of the day driving south along the twisting, winding roads of the Coromandel Peninsula with its deep green forests covering steep valley sides to straight roads amongst a flat landscape full of greeny yellow paddocks and then into the forested hillsides around the Pureora Forest. The sun was setting as we pulled into our camp deep in the native forest, out of the car and in the massive trees sat a Kaka! An endemic parrot we had been hoping to see for a while! That evening we went in search of the Brown Kiwi, and although we heard one calling close by we could not find it amongst the dense vegetation of the forest.

Monday: Woke up to rain pattering on the tent, everything when you are camping is so much more difficult when it rains but we managed to have breakfast and pack the tent during a lull in the rain.

We then made our way back into the forest to a watch tower where we spent over an hour watching the birds of the forest just like in Peru! It continued to rain, drifting between misty rain and heavier downpours, while we were safe undercover. The forest was filled with native New Zealand birds, Kaka, Yellow Crowned Parakeets, New Zealand Robins to name a few.

Next, as the rain seemed to ease, we went for a short walk through the giant trees of this native forest. Ferns, mosses and epiphytes draped themselves over trees that towered skywards and tiny birds called Riflemen flitted through the canopy.

Our plans to search the forest further were stopped by the rain as it got heavier and heavier and so we left heading for the Tongario National Park in the central region of New Zealand's North Island.

By the time we reached the massive Lake Taupo and followed its west coast the weather had cleared and bright sunshine replaced the sullen grey clouds. We then turned away from the lake heading for the Tongario National Park and namely the active volcano Mount Ruapehu. As we got closer to the mountain the rain once again came down, obscuring any views of this impressive volcano.

That evening as the skies cleared we set our camp in Whakapapa and then went on another, this time less fruitful, search for the Brown Kiwi in the beech forest on the slopes of the mountain.

Tuesday: What a difference a night makes! The skies had cleared and the massive peak of Mount Ruapehu glinted in the sunlight.
We headed out on a walk through the beech forest and tussock alpine shrub meadows on the slope of the mountain. Through the mountain beech forest, alive with the calls of native birds and cicadas and over a stream whose bed was coloured brilliant gold! Iron-oxide clays deposited on the rocks made it look like it had been touched by Midas. Out into the open tussock meadows we had magnificent views of not only Mount Ruapehu but the other active volcano just next door, Mount Ngauruhoe. The volcanoes towered above us set against the back drop of a stunning blue sky. We followed the trail through more forest and out into meadows where beautiful flowers popped up between bushes and dragonflies & damselflies flitted over swampy patches, until we reached the Silica Rapids. Here the river widens and the bed turns creamy white as alumino-silicates are deposited.

From here we crossed more rugged alpine meadows on our way back to town. The trail climbed over and around an old lava flow now covered with tussock and alpine shrubs. It was while walking around the bottom edge of the lava flow, that when happening to look up we spotted a New Zealand Falcon! We had been searching since arriving in New Zealand for this rare, endemic raptor that is often difficult to find. The bird took off circling above us then swooping across the valley and out of sight! Awesome!

Buzzing from seeing that magnificent bird we ate a little lunch then headed just south of the mountain in search of another rare, endemic bird the Blue Duck. After following a narrow, winding road through a steep sided valley that followed the Manganuteao River we finally came to a bridge over looking the boulder strewn, fast flowing river and there just up the river were three Blue Ducks! Beautiful blue-grey feathers, with red on the breast and beautiful, piercing yellow eye these ducks are unusual amongst the family for preferring fast flowing rivers.

We camped in a secluded site near Okahune on the southern slopes of Mount Ruapehu and once again when it got dark went in search of Brown Kiwi. We walked though more native forest, with massive trees towering, silhouetted black against the deep blue night sky. Numerous Morepork could be heard calling and then we heard the distinctive harsh trill of a Brown Kiwi very close by! We stopped and listened intently but again we could not hear or see anything else.
The closest encounter we had that night was with a rather inquisitive Bush-tailed Possum that clung to one of those giant trees looking down at us.

Wednesday: An overcast morning, but as we were packing camp two New Zealand Falcons flew over! Its just like buses back home, you wait for ages to see one, then they all come at once!

We then returned to take one last look at those wonderful Blue Ducks, making the most of being in an area where these birds are so accessible i.e. you don't have to go walking for miles and miles along mountain streams in the middle of nowhere.

After one last short walk to Lake Rotokura where we enjoyed views of New Zealand Dabchick and Austrailasian Shovelar, we headed south away from the Tongario.

Finally after hours of driving through flat, farming landscape we arrived at Foxton Beach to the south west of Palmerston North, where we camped for the night.

Thursday: A walk along the Manuwatu River Estuary was this mornings activity, with plenty of waders and other sea birds on view. We walked right along the estuary to the end of Foxton Beach Township and here we found another beautiful bird, the Royal Spoonbill. Although quite a distance away we could just make out their pure white feathers and long, flat, black bill with the distinctive spoon shaped end.

Back at the car we continued our trip south, we were booked onto the 6.15pm sailing tomorrow to the South Island from Wellington and so went in search of a campsite on the southern coast of the North Island.

We followed the west coast south and then crossed over two mountain ranges, following steep, winding, often narrow roads up and over. Both were cloaked in deep green native forest and both had steep valley sides that dropped off dramatically from the side of the road!
Once over the range the land flattened out and acres of greeny yellow grass paddocks filled the landscape. We followed this road to the beautiful blue ocean which rolled up onto black sandy beaches.

We camped in the foothills of another mountain range, in a narrow valley with steep sides covered in deep green trees and sheer cliffs of exposed rock, cutting inland from the ocean with a rocky stream bed winding its way through.

Friday: This morning we walked up the stream bed through the valley to The Pinnacles, impressive massive columns of gravel towering above the stream bed and sculptured into sheer 3D pillars, cliffs, gullies and arches by wind and rain.

We then drove back over the two mountain ranges to Wellington ready to board the ferry later that evening.

As the ferry made its way out of Wellington Harbour we stood on the observation decks looking out over the silvery blue ocean, watching shearwaters skim past wing tips just above the waves. Ahead the Malborough Sounds came into view, a maze of inlets and sounds to be navigated before reaching Picton and the South Island. We stayed on the open deck until it became too dark to watch and then spent the rest of the journey in the warm lounge.

Saturday: A good night sleep despite the rumbles of a train going over head.

After a relaxed breakfast we went into Picton to take a look around, we sorted out Rachael's dive course - looks like we'll be heading back to Kaikoura as the team in Picton can not fit us in this week!

This afternoon we joined Dolphin Watch Ecotours on a marine and island wildlife watching tour through the Queen Charlotte Sound. Soon we were cruising through the silvery blue waters of the Sound, flanked by steep, rounded hills covered in native and pine forests. We both stood scanning for wildlife and were rewarded with good views of various seabirds. Nearly an hour into the trip we slowed into a bay, up ahead, close to shore Lee spotted fins! We cruised slowly over and spent about 10 minutes watching 15 Hectors Dolphins! They were in a playful mood, swimming under and around the boat and breaching repeatedly a short distance away!

Next stop was Motohura Island, a sanctuary at the mouth of the Sound filled with rare, endemic birds a little like Tiritiri Matangi. Saddlebacks, Yellow Crowned Parakeets and NZ Robins hopped amongst the branches fearless of humans.

On the journey back we spotted more birds including the King Shag, only 600 of these birds are left and they are only found in the Malborough Sounds! We also watched a couple of New Zealand Fur Seals lounging on the rocks and swimming amongst the bluey green waters of the bay.